DJERASH.
28
which I have enumerated in the above description, there are upwards ¬
of one hundred half columns also standing. I did not see
any marks of the frusta of the columns having been joined by iron
hooks, as at Palmyra. Of the private habitations of the city there
is none in a state of preservation, but the whole of the area within
the walls is covered with their ruins.
The stone with which Djerash is built is calcareous, of considerable ¬
hardness, and the same as the rock of the neighbouring mountains; ¬
I did not observe any other stone to have been employed,
and it is matter of surprise that no granite columns should be
found here, as they abound in Syrian cities of much less note and
magnificence than Djerash.
It had been my intention to proceed from Djerash to the village
of Djezaze, in my way to the castle of Szalt in the mountains of
Belka, from whence I hoped to be able to visit Amman. After
many fruitless enquiries for a guide, a man of Souf at last offered to
conduct me to Szalt, and he had accompanied us as far as Djerash;
but when, after havingsurveyed the ruins, I rejoined my companions,
he had changed his mind, and insisted on returning immediately
to Souf; this was occasioned by his fear of the Arabs Beni Szakher,
who had for some time past been at war with the Arabs of Djebel
Belka and the government of Damascus, and who were now extending ¬
their plundering incursions all over the mountain. The
name of the Beni Szakher is generally dreaded in these parts ; and
the greater or less facility with which the traveller can visit them,
depends entirely upon the good or bad terms existing between those
Arabs and the Pasha; if they are friends, one of the tribe may easily ¬
be found to serve as a guide; but when they are enemies, the traveller ¬
is exposed to the danger of being stripped; and, if the animosity ¬
of the two parties is very great, of even being murdered. The
Mutsellim of Damascus had given me letters to the chief of the
