55
SZANAMEIN.
Ghabarib has a ruined castle, and on the side of the road is a
Birket or reservoir, with a copious spring. These cisterns are met
with at every station on the Hadj route as far as Mekka ; some of
them are filled by rain water; others by small streams, which if
they were not thus collected into one body would be absorbed in
the earth, and could not possibly afford water for the thousands of
camels which pass, nor for the filling of the water-skins.
At one hour beyond Ghabarib is the village Didy, to the left of
the road: one hour from Didy, Es-szanamein (), the Two
Idols; the bearing of the road from Kessoue is S. b. E.* Sza
namein is a considerable village, with several ancient buildings
and towers; but as my companions were unwilling to stop, I could
not examine them closely. I expected to revisit them on my ré
turn to Damascus, but I subsequently preferred taking the route
of the Loehf. I was informed afterwards that many Greek inscrip
tions are to be found at Szanamein.
From Szanamein the Hadj route continues in the same direc
tion as before to Tafar and Mezerib ; we left it and took a route
more easterly. That which we had hitherto travelled being the high
road from the Haouran to Damascus, is perfectly secure, and we
met with numerous parties of peasants going to and from the city;
but we had scarcely passed Szanamein when we were apprised by
some Felahs that a troop of Arabs Serdie had been for several
days past plundering the passengers and villages in the neigh
bourhood. Afraid of being surprised, my companions halted and
sewed their purses up in a camel’s pack saddle; I followed their
example. I was informed that these flying parties of Arabs very
rarely drive away the cattle of the Haouran people, but are
satisfied with stripping them of cash, or any new piece of dress
* The variation of the compass is not computed in any of the bearings of this journal.