Full text : Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig: Travels in Syria and the Holy Land

583
EL  BOSTAN.
It  is  to  be  observed,  that  none  of  these  inscriptions  are  found
higher  up  the  valley  than  the  water  rock,  being  all  upon  blocks
on  the  way  from  thence  to  the  convent,  which  seems  to  be  a  strong
proof,  that  they  were  inscribed  by  those  persons  only  who  came
from  the  convent  or  from  Cairo,  to  visit  the  rock,  and  not  by  pilgrims ¬
  in  their  way  to  the  mountain  of  Moses  or  of  St.  Catherine,
who  would  undoubtedly  have  left  some  record  farther  up  the  valley,
and  more  particularly  upon  the  sides  and  summits  of  the  mountains ¬
  themselves  :  but  I  could  there  find  no  inscriptions  whatever,
although  I  examined  the  ground  closely,  and  saw  many  smooth
blocks  by  the  road,  very  suitable  to  such  inscriptions.
At  forty  minutes  walk  from  Erbayn,  where  the  valley  El  Ledja
opens  into  the  broad  valley  which  leads  eastwards  to  the  convent,
is  a  fine  garden,  with  the  ruins  of  a  small  convent,  called  El  Bostan
water  is  conducted  into  it  by  a  small  channel  from  a  spring  in  the
Ledja.  It  was  full  of  apricot  trees,  and  roses  in  full  blossom.  A  few
Djebalye  live  here  and  take  care  of  the  garden.  From  hence  to  the
convent  is  half  an  hour  ;  in  the  way  is  shewn  the  head  of  the  golden ¬
  calf,  which  the  Israelites  worshipped,  transmuted  into  stone.
It  is  somewhat  singular  that  both  the  monks  and  the  Bedouins  call
it  the  cow’s  head  (Ras  el  Bakar),  and  not  the  calf's,  confounding
it,  perhaps,  with  the  “  red  heifer,  of  which  the  Old  Testament  and
the  Koran  speak.  It  is  a  stone  half-buried  in  the  ground,  and
bears  some  resemblance  to  the  forehead  of  a  cow.  Some  travellers
have  explained  this  stone  to  be  the  mould  in  which  Aaron  cast  the
calf,  though  it  is  not  hollow  but  projecting  ;  the  Arabs  and  monks
however  gravely  assured  me  that  it  was  the  “  cow’s”  head  itself.
Beyond  this  object,  towards  the  convent,  a  hill  is  pointed  out  to  the
left,  called  Djebel  Haroun,  because  it  is  believed  to  be  the  spot
where  Aaron  assembled  the  seventy  elders  of  Israel.  Both  this  and
the  cow’s  head  have  evidently  received  these  denominations  from
            
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