Full text : Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig: Travels in Syria and the Holy Land

18
MOUNT  LIBANUS.
October  2d.—  The  tobacco  of  Deir  el  Akhmar  is  the  finest  in  Syria.
There  is  no  water  in  the  village,  but  at  twenty  minutes  from  it,
towards  the  plain,  is  a  copious  well.  After  ascending  the  mountain -
  for  three  hours  and  a  half,  we  reached  the  village  Ainnete  :
thus  far  the  mountain  is  covered  with  low  oak  trees  (the  roundleaved, ¬
  and  common  English  kinds),  and  has  but  few  steep  passages.
Nearly  one  hour  from  Ainnete  begins  a  more  level  country,  which
divides  the  Upper  from  the  Lower  Libanus.  This  part  was  once
well  cultivated,  but  the  Metaweli  having  driven  the  people  to
despair,  the  village  is  in  consequence  deserted  and  in  ruins.
A  few  fields  are  still  cultivated  by  the  inhabitants  of  Deir  Eliaout
and  Btedai,  who  sow  their  seed  in  the  autumn,  and  in  the  spring
return,  build  a  few  huts,  and  watch  the  growing  crop.  The  walnut ¬
  tree  abounds  here.
There  are  three  springs  at  Ainnete,  one  of  which  was  dried  up  ;
another  falls  over  the  rock  in  a  pretty  cascade;  they  unite  in
a  Wady  which  runs  parallel  with  the  upper  mountain  as  far  as  the
lake  Liemoun,  two  hours  west  of  Ainnete  ;  at  this  time  the  lake
was  nearly  dry,  an  extraordinary  circumstance  ;  I  saw  its  bed  a
little  higher  up  than  Ainnete.
From  Ainnete  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  is  steep,  and  the  vegetation ¬
  is  scanty;  though  it  reaches  to  the  summit.  A  few  oaks
and  shrubs  grow  amongst  the  rocks.  The  road  is  practicable  for
loaded  mules,  and  my  horse  ascended  without  difficulty.  The
honey  of  Ainnete,  and  of  the  whole  of  Libanus,  is  of  a  superior
quality.
At  the  end  of  two  hours  and  a  half  from  Ainnete  we  reached
the  summit,  from  whence  I  enjoyed  a  magnificent  view  over  the
Bekaa,  the  Anti-Libanus,  and  Djebel  Essheikh,  on  one  side,  and
the  sea,  the  sea  shore  near  Tripoli,  and  the  deep  valley  of  Kadisha
on  the  other.  We  were  not  quite  upon  the  highest  summit,  which
lay  half  an  hour  to  the  right.  Baalbec  bore  from  hence  S.  by  E,
            
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