Full text : Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig: Travels in Syria and the Holy Land

WADY  OSH.
485
Ferash,”  i.  e.  “  the  meat  for  the  apartment  of  the  women  ;”  and  a
part  of  it  is  then  either  set  aside,  or  he  is  answered  that  this  has  been
already  done.  In  the  evening  we  joined  in  some  of  the  popular
songs,  of  which  a  description  will  be  found  in  my  illustration  of
Bedouin  manners.
I  was  naturally  asked  for  what  object  I  had  come  to  these  mountains. -
  As  the  passage  of  Greeks  on  their  way  to  visit  the  convent
of  Sinai  is  frequent,  I  might  have  answered  that  I  was  a  Greek  ;
but  I  thought  it  better  to  adhere  to  what  I  had  already  told  my
guides,  that  I  had  left  Cairo,  in  order  not  to  expose  myself  to  the
plague,  that  I  wished  to  pass  my  time  among  the  Bedouins  while
the  disease  prevailed,  and  that  I  intended  to  visit  the  convent.
Other  Moslems  would  have  considered  it  impious  to  fly  from  the
infection  ;  but  I  knew  that  all  these  Bedouins  entertain  as  great  a
dread  of  the  plague  as  Europeans  themselves.  During  the  spring,
when  the  disease  usually  prevails  in  Egypt,  no  prospect  of  gain  can
induce  them  to  expose  themselves  to  infection,  by  a  journey  to  the
banks  of  the  Nile  ;  the  Bedouins  with  whom  I  left  Cairo  were  the
last  who  had  remained  there.  Had  the  Pasha  granted  me  a  Firmahn
to  the  great  Sheikh  of  the  Towara  Arabs,  I  should  have  gone  directly ¬
  to  his  tent,  and  in  virtue  of  it  I  should  have  taken  guides  to
conduct  me  to  Akaba;  but  being  without  the  Firmahn,  1  thought
it  more  prudent  to  visit  the  convent  in  the  first  instance,  and  to
depart  from  thence  for  Akaba,  in  order  to  take  advantage  of  such
influence  as  the  Prior  might  possess  over  the  Bedouins,  for  though
they  pay  little  respect  to  the  priests,  yet  they  have  some  fear  of
being  excluded  from  the  gains  accruing  from  the  transport  of
visitors  to  the  convent.  As  every  white-skinned  person,  who
makes  his  appearance  in  the  desert,  is  supposed  by  the  Arabs  to
be  attached  to  the  Turkish  army,  or  the  government  of  Cairo,  my
*  This  will  form  part  of  a  subsequent  volume.  Ed.
            
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