Full text : Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig: Travels in Syria and the Holy Land

473
WADY  GHARENDEL.
no  other  road  of  three  days  march  in  the  way  from  Suez  towards
Sinai,  nor  is  there  any  other  well  absolutely  bitter  on  the  whole  of
this  coast,  as  far  as  Ras  Mohammed.  The  complaints  of  the  bitterness
of  the  water  by  the  children  of  Israel,  who  had  been  accustomed  to
the  sweet  water  of  the  Nile,  are  such  as  may  daily  be  heard  from
the  Egyptian  servants  and  peasants  who  travel  in  Arabia.  Accus
tomed  from  their  youth  to  the  excellent  water  of  the  Nile,  there
is  nothing  which  they  so  much  regret  in  countries  distant  from
Egypt;  nor  is  there  any  eastern  people  who  feel  so  keenly  the  want
of  good  water  as  the  present  natives  of  Egypt.  With  respect  to  the
means  employed  by  Moses  to  render  the  waters  of  the  well  sweet,
I  have  frequently  enquired  among  the  Bedouins  in  different  parts
of  Arabia  whether  they  possessed  any  means  of  effecting  such  a
change,  by  throwing  wood  into  it,  or  by  any  other  process  ;  but  I
never  could  learn  that  such  an  art  was  known.
At  the  end  of  three  hours  we  reached  Wady  Gharendel  (a,eo))
which  extends  to  the  N.  E.  and  is  almost  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  full
of  trees.  The  Arabs  told  me  that  it  may  be  traced  through  the  whole
desert,  and  that  it  begins  at  no  great  distance  from  El  Arysh,  on
the  Mediterranean,  but  I  had  no  means  of  ascertaining  the  truth  of
this  statement.  About  half  an  hour  from  the  place  where  we  halted, ¬
  in  a  southern  direction,  is  a  copious  spring,  with  a  small  rivulet,
which  renders  the  valley  the  principal  station  on  this  route.  The
water  is  disagreeable,  and  if  kept  for  a  night  in  the  water  skins,  it
turns  bitter  and  spoils,  as  Ihave  myself  experienced,  having  passed
this  way  three  times.
If  we  admit  Bir  Howara  to  be  the  Marah*  of  Exodus  (xv.  23),
then  Wady  Gharendel  is  probably  Elim,  with  its  wells  and  date
trees,  an  opinion  entertained  by  Niebúhr,  who,  however,  did  not
*  Morra  in  Arabic  means  “  bitter."  Marah  in  Hebrew  is  "  bitternes.
3  P
            
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