KAYT BEG.
458
travels in Syria, where the orders of the Pasha of Damascus were
much slighted in several of the districts under his dominion.
A fortnight before I set out for Mount Sinai I had applied to
the Pasha through his Dragoman, for a letter to the Bedouin
Sheikh; but I was kept waiting for it day after day, and after thus
delaying my departure a whole week, I was at last obliged to set off
without it. The want of it was the cause of some embarrassment to
me, and prevented me from reaching Akaba. It is not improba
ble that on being applied to for the letter, the Pasha gave the same
answer as he gave at Tayf, when I asked him for a Firmahn,
namely, that as I was sufficiently acquainted with the language and
manners of the Arabs, I needed no further recommendation.
The Arabs of Mount Sinai usually alight at Cairo in the quarter
called El Djemelye, where some of them are almost constantly to
be found. Having gone thither, I met with the same Bedouin
with whom I had come last year from Tor to Cairo; I hired two
camels from him for myself and servant, and laid in provisions for
about six weeks consumption. We left Cairo on the evening of
the 20th of April, and slept that night among the ruined tombs of
the village called Kayt Beg, a mile from the city. From this vil
lage, at which the Bedouins usually alight, the caravans for Suez
often depart ; it is also the resort of smugglers from Suez and
Syria.
April 21st.—We set out from Kayt Beg in the course of the
morning, in the company of a caravan bound for Suez, compris
ing about twenty camels, some of which belonged to Moggrebyn
pilgrims, who had come by sea from Tunis to Alexandria; the
others to a Hedjaz merchant, and to the Bedouins of Mount Sinai,
who had brought passengers from Suez to Cairo, and were now re
turning with corn to their mountains. As I knew the character of
these Bedouins by former experience, and that the road was per¬