EL GHOEYR.
414
mountains of the Ghoeyr; we passed several springs, and the
ruined place called Szyhhan (), and at the end of three hours
walk arrived at a large encampment of the Howeytat, situated near
the summit of the basin of the Ghoeyr. It is usual, when an Arab
with his tent reaches an encampment placed in a Douar (), or
circle, that some of the families strike their tents, and pitch them
again in such a way as to widen the circle for the admission of the
stranger’s tent; but the character of my guide did not appear to
be sufficiently respectable to entitle him to this compliment, for
not a tent was moyed, and he was obliged to encamp alone
out of the circle, in the hope that they would soon break up for
some other spot where he might obtain a place in the Douar.
These Arabs are much poorer than the Aeneze, and consequently
live much worse. Had it not been for the supply of butter which
I bought at Beszeyra, I should have had nothing but dry bread to
eat ; there was not a drop of milk to be got, for at this time of the
year the ewes are dry ; of camels there was but about half a dozen
in the whole encampment.
I here came to an explanation with my guide, who, I saw, was
determined to cheat me out of the wages he had already received.
I told him that I was tired of his subterfuges, and was resolved to
travel with him no longer, and I insisted upon his returning me
the goats, or hiring me another guide in his stead. He offered me
only one of the goats ; after a sharp dispute therefore I arose, took
my gun, and swore that I would never re-enter his tent, accompanying -
my oath with a malediction upon him, and upon those
who should receive him into their encampment, for I had been
previously informed that he was not a real Howeytat, but of the
tribe of Billy, the individuals of which are dispersed over the whole
desert. On quitting his tent, I was surrounded by the Bedouins
