Full text : Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig: Travels in Syria and the Holy Land

413
EL  GHOEYR.
enemies  in  the  plains  of  the  Nedjed.  The  Beni  Szakher  are  most
dreaded  by  them,  on  account  of  their  acquaintance  with  the  country, ¬
  and  peace  seldom  lasts  long  between  the  two  tribes.  The
encampment  where  I  spent  this  day  was  robbed  of  all  its  camels
last  winter  by  the  Beni  Szakher,  who  drove  off,  in  one  morning,
upwards  of  twelve  hundred  belonging  to  their  enemies.  The  Howeytat -
  receive  considerable  sums  of  money  as  a  tribute  from  the
Egyptian  pilgrim  caravan;  they  also  levy  certain  contributions
upon  the  castles  on  the  Syrian  Hadj  route,  situated  between  Maan
and  Tebouk,  which  they  consider  as  forming  a  part  of  their  territory. ¬
  They  have  become  the  carriers  of  the  Egyptian  Hadj,  in  the
same  manner,  as  the  Aeneze  transport  with  their  camels  the
Syrian  pilgrims  and  their  baggage.  When  at  variance  with  the
Pashas  of  Egypt,  the  Howeytat  have  been  known  to  plunder  the
caravan  ;  a  case  of  this  kind  happened  about  ten  years  ago,  when
the  Hadj  was  returning  from  Mekka  ;  the  principal  booty  consisted
of  several  thousand  camel  loads  of  Mocha  coffee,  an  article  which
the  pilgrims  are  in  the  constant  habit  of  bringing  for  sale  to  Cairo  ;
the  Bedouins  not  knowing  what  to  do  with  so  large  a  quantity.
sold  the  greater  part  of  it  at  Hebron,  Tafyle,  and  Kerek,  and  that
year  happening  to  be  a  year  of  dearth,  they  gave  for  every  mea
sure  of  corn  an  equal  measure  of  coffee.  The  Howeytat  became
Wahabis  ;  but  they  paid  tribute  only  for  one  year,  and  have  now
joined  their  forces  with  those  of  Mohammed  Aly,  against  Ibn
Saoud.
August  16th.—We  set  out  for  the  encampment  of  the  Sheikh  of
the  northern  Howeytat,  with  the  tent  and  family  of  my  guide:  who
was  afraid  of  leaving  them  in  this  place  where  he  thought  himself  too
much  exposed  to  the  incursions  of  the  Beni  Szakher.  We  ascended
on  foot,  through  many  Wadys  of  winter  torrents,  up  the  southern
            
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