KEREK. 
378 
I to take up my lodgings at the Sheikh’s house, I determined to 
alight at some Christian’s, and then consult upon my future proceed 
ing with the Greek priest, whom I knew by report. I no sooner 
entered the north gate of the town, where is the quarter of the 
Christians, than I was surrounded by several of these hospitable 
people, who took hold of the bridle of my horse, every one insist 
ing upon my repairing to his dwelling; I followed one, and the 
whole neighbourhood was soon assembled, to partake of the sheep 
that was slaughtered in honour of my arrival; still no one had 
asked me who I was, or whither I was going. After some conver 
sation with the priest, I thought it expedient to pay a visit of cere 
mony to the Sheikh, in order to deliver my letter; I soon however 
had reason to repent : he received me very politely ; but when he 
heard of my intention of proceeding southward, he told me that 
he could not allow of my going forward with one guide only, and 
that as he was preparing to visit the southern districts himself, in 
a few days, I should wait for him or his people to conduct me. 
His secretary then informed me, that it was expected I should 
make some present to the Sheikh, and pay him, besides, the sum 
which I must have given for a guide. The present I flatly refused 
to make, saying that it was rather the Sheikh’s duty to make a 
present to the guest recommended to him by such a person as my 
Damascene friend was. With respect to the second demand, I 
answered that I had no more money with me than was absolutely 
necessary for my journey. Our negotiations on this point lasted 
for several days; when seeing that I could obtain no guide without 
an order from the Sheikh, I at last agreed to pay fifteen piastres 
for his company as far as Djebel Sherah. If I had shewn a dispo 
sition to pay this sum immediately, every body would have thought 
that I had plenty of money, and more considerable sums would 
have been extorted ; in every part of Turkey it is a prudent rule not