Full text : Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig: Travels in Syria and the Holy Land

349
SZALT
of  the  tribe  of  Abad  (e);  they  had  lately  been  robbed  of  almost
all  their  cattle  by  the  Beni  Szakher,  and  were  reduced  to  such
misery  that  they  could  not  afford  to  give  us  a  little  sour  milk  which
we  begged  of  them.  They  were  still  at  war  with  the  Beni  Szakher,
and  were  in  hopes  of  recovering  a  part  of  their  property  ;  but  as
they  were  too  weak  to  act  openly,  they  had  encamped,  for  protection, -
  in  the  neighbourhood  of  their  friends  the  inhabitants  of  Szalt.
They  intended  to  make  from  hence  some  plundering  excursions
against  their  enemies,  for  they  had  now  hardly  any  thing  more  to
lose  in  continuing  at  war  with  them.  I  alighted  at  Szalt  at  the
house  of  one  of  my  companions,  where  I  was  hospitably  entertained ¬
  during  the  whole  of  my  stay  at  this  place.
The  town  of  Szalt  is  situated  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill,  crowned
by  a  castle,  and  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  steep  mountains.  It
is  the  only  inhabited  place  in  the  province  of  Belka,  and  its  inhabitants ¬
  are  quite  independent.  The  Pashas  of  Damascus  have  several -
  times  endeavoured  in  vain  to  subdue  them.  Abdulla  Pasha,
the  late  governor,  besieged  the  town  for  three  months,  without
success.  The  population  consists  of  about  four  hundred  Musulman -
  and  eighty  Christian  families  of  the  Greek  church,  who
live  in  perfect  amity  and  equality  together:  the  Musulmans  are
composed  of  three  tribes,  the  Beni  Kerad  (),  the  Owamele
(de,e),  and  the  Kteyshat  (),  each  of  which  has  its  separate
quarter  in  the  town  ;  the  principal  Sheikhs,  at  present  two  in  number, ¬
  live  in  the  castle  ;  but  they  have  no  other  authority  over  the
rest  than  such  as  a  Bedouin  Sheikh  exercises  over  his  tribe.  The
castle  was  almost  wholly  rebuilt  by  the  famous  Dhaher  el  Omar,
who  resided  here  several  years.  He  obtained  possession  by  the
assistance  of  the  weakest  of  the  two  parties  into  which  the  place
»  See  the  history  of  Sheikh  Dhaher,  the  predecessor  of  Djezzar  Pasha  in  the  government ¬
  of  Akka,  in  Volney.  Voyage  en  Egypte  et  en  Syrie,  vol.  ii.  chap.  25.  Ed.
            
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