Volltext : Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig: Travels in Syria and the Holy Land

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KALAAT  HAMAM.
an  hour  to  the  west  of  Medjdel,  on  the  cliff  which  borders  the  Wady
Hamam.  In  the  calcareous  mountain  are  many  natural  caverns,
which  have  been  united  together  by  passages  cut  in  the  rock,  and  enlarged, ¬
  in  order  to  render  them  more  commodious  for  habitation;
walls  have  also  been  built  across  the  natural  openings,  so  that  no
person  could  enter  them  except  through  the  narrow  communicating
passages;  and  wherever  the  nature  of  the  almost  perpendicular  cliff
permitted  it,  small  bastions  were  built,  to  defend  the  entrance  of  the
castle,  which  has  been  thus  rendered  almost  impregnable.  The
perpendicular  cliff  forms  its  protection  above,  and  the  access  from
below  is  by  a  narrow  path,  so  steep  as  not  to  allow  of  a  horse
mounting  it.  In  the  midst  of  the  caverns  several  deep  cisterns  have
been  hewn.  The  whole  might  afford  refuge  to  about  six  hundred
men  ;  but  the  walls  are  now  much  damaged.  The  place  was  probably ¬
  the  work  of  some  powerful  robber,  about  the  time  of  the
Crusades;  a  few  vaults  of  communication,  with  pointed  arches,
denote  Gothic  architecture.  Below  in  the  valley  runs  a  small  rivulet, ¬
  which  empties  itself  into  the  Wady  Lymoun.  Here  the  peasants ¬
  of  Medjdel  cultivate  some  gardens.
In  returning  from  the  Kalaat  Hamam  I  was  several  times  reprimanded ¬
  by  my  guide,  for  not  taking  proper  care  of  the  lighted
tobacco  that  fell  from  my  pipe.  The  whole  of  the  mountain  is
thickly  covered  with  dry  grass,  which  readily  takes  fire,  and  the
slightest  breath  of  air  instantly  spreads  the  conflagration  far  over
the  country,  to  the  great  risk  of  the  peasant’s  harvest.  The  Arabs
who  inhabit  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  invariably  put  to  death  any
person  who  is  known  to  have  been  even  the  innocent  cause  of
firing  the  grass,  and  they  have  made  it  a  public  law  among  themselves, ¬
  that  even  in  the  height  of  intestine  warfare,  no  one  shall
attempt  to  set  his  enemy’s  harvest  on  fire.  One  evening,  while  at
Tabaria,  I  saw  a  large  fire  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  which
            
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