Full text : Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig: Travels in Syria and the Holy Land

183
ANTOURA.
turned  up  the  mountain  to  the  left.  At  the  end  of  five  hours  an
three  quarters  I  came  to  a  wood  of  firs,  which  trees  are  very  common ¬
  in  these  parts  ;  to  the  right  is  the  village  Haret  el  Bottne  (5
).  Six  hours  and  three  quarters  Zouk  Mykayl  (),  the
principal  village  in  Kesrouan,  where  resides  the  Sheikh  Beshera,
of  the  family  of  Khazen,  who  is  at  present  the  governor  of  the
province.  The  inhabitants  of  Zouk  consist,  for  the  greater  part,  of
the  shopkeepers  and  artizans  who  furnish  Kesrouan  with  articles
of  dress  or  of  luxury.  I  observed  in  particular  many  makers  of
boots  and  shoes.  Seven  hours,  is  Deir  Beshara,  a  convent  of  nuns.
At  the  end  of  seven  hours  and  a  quarter,  Iarrived  at  Antoura,  a
village  in  a  lofty  situation,  with  a  convent,  which  formerly  belonged
to  the  Jesuits,  but  which  is  now  inhabited  by  a  Lazarist,  the
Abbate  Gandolfi,  who  is  the  Pope’s  delegate,  for  the  affairs  of  the
eastem  church.  I  had  letters  for  him,  and  met  with  a  most  friendly
reception  :  his  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  affairs  of  the  mountain, ¬
  and  of  the  Druses,  which  his  residence  of  upwards  of  twelve
years,  and  a  sound  understanding,  have  enabled  him  to  acquire,
renders  his  conversation  very  instructive  to  the  inquisitive  traveller.
March  15th.—I  left  Antoura  in  the  evening,  to  visit  some  convents ¬
  in  a  higher  part  of  the  mountains  of  Kesrouan.  Passed  Wady
Kheredj  (),  and  at  three  quarters  of  an  hour  from  Antoura,  the
ruined  convent  of  Bekerke  (6),  once  the  residence  of  the  famous ¬
  Hindye,  whose  history  Volney  has  given.  Now  that  passions -
  have  cooled,  and  that  the  greater  part  of  the  persons  concerned -
  are  dead,  it  is  the  general  opinion  that  Hindye’s  only  crime
was  her  ambition  to  pass  for  a  saint.  The  abominable  acts  of  debauchery ¬
  and  cruelty  of  which  she  was  accused,  are  probably  imaginary ¬
  :  but  it  is  certain  that  she  rigorously  punished  the  nuns  of
her  convent  who  hesitated  to  believe  in  her  sanctity,  or  who  doubted
the  visits  of  Jesus  Christ,  of  which  she  boasted.  Hindye  died  about
            
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